Building the Falcon fast electric ECO race boat

Building the GTM Falcon

The following measurements represent the latest set up criteria.

Rudder from transom 40mm

End of prop shaft from transom 95mm

Motor from inside transom 263mm

Prop tube entry hole from transom 155mm -175 mm

Prop shaft outer cut to 145 mm

Prop shaft inner excluding stub (2mm spindle) cut to 165mm (2mm bit is 165mm)

General

With this set up the forward end of the centre of the prop shaft outer should be 15mm above the bottom of the hull. Prop shaft boss will run max 30mm prop.

The best way to set this up is to give the minimum shaft angle with the biggest prop you will use (31mmP - suggest Graupner 29mm P prop). Keep the motor installed as as low as possible with the cooling coil on.

C of G ought to be somewhere around the prop shaft hull entry point.

Cells should be offset to the left to counter torque reaction. With 6 cells 3 live between prop shaft and RHS inverted rail (from the rear) and 3 live on the left of the LHS inverted rail. With 7 cells it will be 2,2 and 3with the 3 on the RHS of the prop and 2 on the left and 2 to the left of them.

This should give an excellent start point but builds will always differ slightly and react differently.

Building the hull

Three mouldings make up the Falcon hull set. Hull, deck and deck insert.

The deck has a moulded in trim line. This line represents the cut line for the access hatch. We suggest that you tape over the trim line with masking tape, and line in the trim line with a thin felt tip before cutting. All cuts should be made in a gradual manner, attempting to cut the full depth in one go WILL result in a damaged hull - We do not carry replacement parts the boat is moulded as one entity -YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. Once the canopy is free of the deck section carefully sand the join to remove any jags - not too much or the canopy will not fit. Do not trim the outside of the deck!!!!!

The smallest moulding is the deck insert - when in place this will provide a lip for the lid. Trim the deck insert round the join of the mould to the flat section. Remove the inside flat section - this provides an access hole. You can trim the insert back closer in order to reduce weight but leave it final trimming until you have test fitted it in the deck.Trim the bottom of the hull, just inside the lip and make sure the mating surface is flat. Test fit to the deck section and when satisfied glue the assembly together. Super glue or a purpose made ABS cement is best. Once the assembly is set you can trim the outside of the overlap to suit.

Hardware

You might like to fit all your hardware to the hull section before gluing it to the deck. Certainly it is easier to place equipment, even if it is just to check the fit, at this stage. If you do - make sure that you do not introduce any distortion. All holes should be a friction fit - there should be no distortion introduced when the hardware is mounted - similarly there should not be too much play. It can help if you double the area round access holes - the weight added is not significant but the extra strength may help.to fairly tight.

Painting

If you wish to paint the model then you must key the surface first by sanding with fine wet or dry abrasive paper.

Enjoy your Boating - Any questions please give us a call….